March 25th, 2nd Walk Through London

Today's post is slightly delayed because of how busy my days have been. So despite it being the 29th now, all of the picture are from our class walk on Thursday the 25th! 

We started the afternoon at a sweet little sandwich shop across the street from class. We usually have an hour-hour1/2 break between classes so we generally go grab something quick. The people in this place are super friendly and the foods cheap.  A huge sandwich or tub of pasta for 3 pounds.



In Peter's class we began with a lecture on some pretty disturbing visuals about the hygiene and life-styles of 16th to 19th century English. It was very disgusting so I'm going to devote an entire blog to it after this. But when that was all done we went on a walk.




The first place we visited was here, Grazing, one of the biggest courts in London during the mid-18th centuries. This huge private garden was once restricted only to the residents of the building encircling it, but has since, of course, been opened to the public.



  
The English are a lot like people from Seattle. When the sun comes out, everyone comes out to soak up the rays like a bunch of iguanas looking to recharge:










As usual we post up in plain sight and Professor Buckroyd gives us a little lecture on the area and its historic value. This court was where Royalists once came to trade.





Peter encourages us to come up and talk with him during the walks but the old codger walks so fast it's hard to keep up.



      This beauty to my left is one of the oldest remaining buildings in London. According to Peter there were three primary forces responsible for the destruction of London's greatest historic buildings. First came the Great Fire in 1666 that swept through and leveled nearly all of London (it's like a right of passage for most cities to have a Great Fire, i.e. Chicago, Seattle, etc.) Second came WWII and the bombings London suffered under the hands of Nazi Germany, which we'll get into a bit more further down. And finally, the third most destructive force to ever hit London's buildings: Margaret Thatcher:


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    This heartless plague-in-woman-form has brought London's ancient buildings to their knees and shouted "off with their heads!" like some titan emerging from the depths of Lazy-willows retirement home. The buldings have been primarily replaced by everyday office buildings of which there are literally thousands in London (You can tell Peter's propaganda's affecting me, but I'm sucking it up and spitting it back like a malaria-carrying mosquito, and for good reason). Thatcher's brought the historic-building count in London from 37 buildings, to 8, and finally 3 in the past thirty years! 

     This building, (below) built in 1590, has miraculously survived all three forces of destruction, even  Thatcher; the first two by sheer luck, and the latest mainly because it belonged to one of the Ins of Court, (a strange, lingering legal status given to buildings belonging to the church dating back to the 15th century).
      As you can see it's made mostly from timber, a sign of massive wealth because of the value of wood at the time, and a means to which showcase the church's wealth. The large windows serve the same purpose seeing how glass costed nearly 4 times more than timber. While it has been renovated and remodeled on the interior, this building's main structure has remained largely intact for centuries. Notice the way it's structural lines curve and bend rather than running straight. They didn't use nails to join the wood together but rather pegs, which works. Try hanging about for a few centuries and see if you don't get bent out of shape a little.
      Another amazing feature of the building is a small tobacco shop on the bottom right hand corner. The tradition of selling tobacco from that exact spot runs back from 1602. 400 years! But it seems like that tradition is finally coming to an end. The store closed down in 2011 for financial reasons. I, like Peter, blame Thatcher, but that may not be entirely fair. Still, it's sad to see a tetra-centurion tradition fade with such little lamenting. I will lament for you, tradition.



One these walks I managed to take enough self-portraits that people in my class started feeling bad and offering to take pictures of me instead :) Thanks! The weather on Thursday actually got pretty hot and a lot of us found ourselves peeling of extra unwanted layers.


Say hi guys!

What I'm learning on Peter's walks is that what is generally deemed as "Need-to-See" guides for tourists often overlook some of the most interesting and culturally rich spots in London, which brings us to our next site: Britain's National Meat Market, which still functions as such today.
This place may not look like much, but in1868 it was the center of all meat trades in London, which itself was the center of trade in all of England. Because of its particular timing in terms of technology, (before electricity, refrigeration, or the combustion engine) it boasted a unique system of push-rails that stretched for a staggering 15 miles with hooks for 60,000 pieces of meat! Of course, without refrigeration this meant the meat was at least 3 weeks old by the time anyone who didn't live directly in London bought it... ew.


The iron-work is the original work, but has recently been re-painted to exactly match the original victorian colors from 1868. It's a perfect example of the guady over-the-topness that made Victorians famous for splitting the fence 'tween lovers and haters.



Below is a shot of the main entrance, including a fierce English dragon and a "Warrior-queen to ward of meat thieves I suppose." -Peter

As we left the eternal Warden of Meat behind we walked to another one of Peter's secluded diamonds in the ruff:
    St. Bartholomew's Chapel. Originally built in 1123!

"On any given day you'll see thousands of tourists packing the streets to see West Minster Abbey. How many were in here today? Maybe twenty?" Yet another commonly missed attraction, St. Bartholomew's Church is by no means unknown, but for some it is largely overseen. If you're reading this, however you almost assuredly have seen it. Some of the movies filmed on site have been Another Country, Robin Hood, Prince of Thieves, Four Weddings and a Funeral, Jude, Shakespeare in Love, The End of the Affair, Madam Bovary, Amazing Grace, Elizabeth: The Golden Age. The Other Bolelyn Girl, Sherlock Holmes, and Nine. Quite the track record.


On the left is a statuette of Jesus on the cross on the front of the church. A small reminder of the faith that inspired its construction in the first place...

On the right is just past the main entrance in the courtyard leading to the inside of the chapel itself. There was a sign that read, "absolutely no drinking in the courtyard," which was interesting.




The inside was incredible. The architecture, the exquisite stonework, the aura of a holy place, the smell of old, all of it was there.



One of the funny facts about this place centers on the picture to the left. This is a balcony that was later added by a Bishop Bolton, who eventually grew so fat he couldn't fit through the doorways to attend services. He had this special window built so he could watch from the upstairs window.
     If you look closely at the central stone-carving beneath the window you'll see something that looks like a keg crossed vertically with a cross-bow bolt. A bolt and ton, Bolton, get it? Obese bishops were nothing if not amused by their own wit.

"Ah good, I see that most of you are not pegans." We looked around in confusion after Peter turned and spurted that out. He went on to explain that it was considered highly offensive if a passerby avoided stepping on the graves of the bishops beneath their feet. That's right, those square pieces of cement are the actual grave sights of past Bishops. They were buried in "hopes that they would be connected to future generations, even from death." Eerie. This began and continued from the 13th century onwards. The concept of stepping over someone's grave being bad luck had not been formulated yet.


Charter-house square is directly opposite the Charter-house, fitting right? This park is beautiful. The two tall towers in the back are parts of the Barbican. Peter told us of a friend who bought a five-bedroom apartment on the 11th floor: 3.8 million pounds.









The Charter-house priory (below) has a special place in English History.



In 1533, King Henry of England was so furious at his wife Catherine of Aragon's inability to bear a male heir. Plainly, he wanted a divorce so he could marry Anne Boleyn, but the Roman Catholic Church wouldn't allow it. So what do you do if you're king? Divorce the Church! He divorced himself from the church, declared England a Protestant nation. So King Henry goes through all of London destroying Catholic centers and rebuilding protestant churches. Of course some people, namely devout Catholic monks in this Charter-house priory, had a problem with this. The result is a bunch of militant monks throwing burning oil over the walls onto the King's soldiers. Seriously. Quaint isn't it? Eventually, 15 monks were taken out and executed in the park behind me. Not something to smile at but I need my screen time to prove I was here!
    

                                                           This is St. Alben's Tower

      Chaucer, in the 14th century, wrote of a legend that claimed as long as St. Alben's Tower stood, London would not fall. Remarkably, Chaucer's legendary story became a symbol to all of England half a millennia later during WWII, as Germany's Blitzkrieg was carpeting London with bombs. The people looked to this tower and remembered the legend. It became a symbol of enduring will and strength, and through the dust and debris, the fear and uncertainty, St. Alben's never fell. And neither did London.


Our walk took us through the Guild Hall, built in 1411. The Guild was comprised of representatives from dozens of different professions, each coming together to govern London as individual Guild members.




In 1788 an addition was made to the front of the "ghastly" building. Can you tell where the original building ends and the addition begins? haha (Hint: it's not the modern office building on the left)


Here Peter was showing us the unique width of this road. Originally, the roads between buildings were measured to accommodate one thing: the throwing of feces. You may think I'm being funny, and I am, but I'm also serious. Many of the original streets were designed so that people on either end wouldn't bang their chambers pots together, just in case they pitched their poop simultaneously (There was no sewage system so people did their business in pots and dumped it in the roads). Peter's proving his point by forcing us to give each other crap.



Our adventure took us across the Bank of England. The American Equivalent would be Fort Knox. The difference however is: ours has a heavy military presence, while theirs is meant to impress you to death before you can get close enough to any money/gold.











I think I did a considerably better job of taking pictures of myself, and my classmates. On the right is Michael, a jolly good chap. The pleasant looking girl gazing into the camera below is Victoria :) herro




Each of us that saw this freaked out. If you look at it for a moment you may realize why. The guy in the "driver's" seat was passed out cold in traffic! Only a moment later did we remember the driver was on the other side.



Finally we ended our exhausting walk at the Tower of London (above), built in 1097 by William the conquerer. Tower Bridge (below), named after the Tower of London, was completed in 1894. Both are breath-taking and doubly so in person!



Well after all that I was exhausted and eventually found my way home on the underground and then a bus. London still never ceases to touch me in some way or another every day. To everyone home I miss and love you guy. Keep me in your prayers and I'll be ok! Until next time!

3 comments:

Anonymous said...

i cant believe how old some of those buildings are. crazy!!

Anonymous said...

pretty sweet! im not gonna lie when i say i would love to spend a few weeks there! who knows? my epic culinary adventure might lead me there!XP i hope! i have a cousin in Paris tho..so i may just try that instead for my culinary saga...

Anonymous said...

you need to go see a premier league game!

sincerely your loving cousin Filip

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